Punk Fashion
While punk music saw its roots in the underground scene in New York City, the youth in England established the iconic fashion we often attribute to being "punk." Punk was a youthful reaction to outdated and oppressive ideals forced upon them by older generations. Punk fashion was all about dressing outside of the norms, and punks often sought to shock regular people, while also attracting like-minded individuals.
The typical punk uniform was comprised of dark, eccentric makeup, disheveled or spiked hair, and unique, thrifted or often DIY-ed outfits put together.
Mirrorpix. (2017). Punk rockers march in London [Photograph]. Getty Images. https://www.gettyimages.com/detail/news-photo/punk-rockers-march-in-london-3rd-february-1980-news-photo/639740992?adppopup=true
This image shows young people at a march in late 70s London. They are easily recognizable as wearing alternative fashion, with their dark, spiky hair and studded leather jackets.
Vivienne Westwood
Malcolm McLaren and Vivienne Westwood pictured from left to right. Vivienne is seen wearing her "God Save the Queen" muslin top.
Mirrorpix. (2016). English punk rock band Sex Pistols. [Photograph]. Getty Images. https://www.gettyimages.com/detail/news-photo/punk-rock-group-sex-pistols-manager-malcolm-mclaren-and-news-photo/592334364?adppopup=true
Vivienne Westwood (1941-2022) was an English fashion designer, and is largely attributed with popularizing punk fashion into couture.
Westwood was originally a school teacher, but after divorcing her husband, moved into a flat in London with her boyfriend Malcolm McLaren, future manager of the New York Dolls and the Sex Pistols. Together, they opened a series of shops like 'Let It Rock' and 'Too Fast to Live, Too Young to Die,' before opening 'Sex.' They sold fetish wear, comprised of leather, chains, spikes, and bondage to anyone with clandestine sexual tastes, prostitutes, and young kids brave enough to wear them.
In 1976, Westwood rebranded her shop to 'Seditionaries;' the clothing remained on the risqué side, with pants that were bound at the calf, making them difficult to walk in, continuing the fetish theme she had going on at 'Sex.' She sold shirts with explicit imagery of bare breasts and male genitalia. Her clothes were sold with tears in the fabric and safety pins shoved through holes; this would become what is now known as punk fashion. The clothing sold at 'Setitionaries' became the uniform for members of the Sex Pistols, who were at this point managed by Westwood's partner McLaren.
Roll the dice. (2009). Jordan 2 [Photograph]. Flickr. https://www.flickr.com/photos/rollthedice/50388028772/in/photolist-4TR5Cj-2jLBPsL-2hDdGdt-2knWELu-2jXWE6e-84EVhE-2ndn74S-RLHKYE-RDsqoV-RDt2QX-RLHZ2o-QAttFn-RAPFEU-5ViwxC-QxPZ3N-RLJyJo-RLJaof-QAuo98-RAPRSs-RQizde-QxPJr3-QxPWBL-RAQq39-RAPTPd-pUEdyR
Jordan was an actress, model, and punk fashion icon, known for the work she did with Vivienne Westwood and the Sex Pistols. She often donned dark makeup that encircled her eyes, tight leather, and bleached blonde hair styled upwards to make her appear taller.
The Costume Institute. (2004, October). Ensemble [Photograph]. Metropolitan Museum of Art. https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/98568
This ensemble outfit mixes fetish wear with sleek fabric and intentional cuts in the fabric. The sleeves of the jacket and legs of the pants are bound to each other, making it difficult to move ones arms or legs. The ensemble is paired with a pleated skirt, and was designed to be worn by any gender. This was sold at Vivienne Westwood's store Seditionaries in 1977.
The Costume Institute. (2004, October). Shirt [Photograph]. Metropolitan Museum of Art. https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/82566
Pictured above is Vivienne Westwood's iconic patchwork "Anarchy" shirt sold at the Sex boutique in 1976. The shirt is a faded striped beige and green button-up top with smears of dark green and red stripes at the top, giving the shirt a messy, "drawn on" appearance, as though someone took a marker and began drawing all over the shirt. The top has patchwork images of Karl Marx and slogans stating "Only Anarchists Are Pretty!" "Chaos," and "We Are Not Afraid of Ruins," adding to the DIY effect of the shirt.
Mirrorpix. (2016). Punk Fashions [Photograph]. Getty Images. https://www.gettyimages.com/detail/news-photo/clothing-from-the-seditionaries-boutique-on-kings-road-news-photo/592351452?adppopup=true
This photograph was originally taken in 1977. Right to left: Pamela, punk fashion icon, Sid Vicious, bassist of Sex Pistols. They are pictured wearing Vivienne Westwood's "God Save the Queen" muslin shirts, designed to match the Sex PIstols hit single of the same name.
Today, Vivienne Westwood is a household name. While her clothing is now seen on fashion runways, it has not lost its rebellious edge; her clothing is imbued with her political messaging and funky DIY style of design.
Vivienne Westwood pictured at a shop launch party in 2008. Westwood began her career in high fashion in the late 80s and 90s. Today, she is a household name.
Jon Furniss. (2008). Vivienne Westwood Opus - Launch Party [Photograph]. Getty Images. https://www.gettyimages.com/detail/news-photo/vivienne-westwood-attends-the-launch-of-the-vivienne-news-photo/79735127?adppopup=true